Say Cheese!
By Ryan Flanagan
Long thought of as a minor accompaniment to more important foods on the plate, cheese is increasingly becoming a trendy, hip, and even desired part of the meal for restaurant patrons.
Combine that with the movement towards promoting local food, and you get a perfect storm which allows for Canadian cheeses to reach heights they’ve never reached before.
“More and more chain and independent operators are using local Canadian specialty and fine cheese on their menus,” says John Leveris, assistant director of market development with the Dairy Farmers of Canada.
Michael Hadden, key account manager for Agropur Fine Cheese, agrees, noting that sales of what are classified as “specialty” cheeses grew by 6 per cent in 2010. In more specific categories, sales of soft, ripened cheeses grew by 4 per cent, Babybel by 50 per cent, and Oka cheeses by 11 per cent.
“I really believe consumers are making a move toward new things and unique tastes in the food market,” he says. “Specialty cheeses fit the bell – consumers are showing a greater willingness to try new and innovative cheeses.”
Each year, the Canadian Restaurant and Foodservices Association puts out a list of the top 10 menu trends for that year. For 2011, it wouldn’t surprise most restaurateurs to learn that locally-produced food is the top trend – but it might be a bit more surprising that artisan and specialty cheeses clock in at number eight on the list, up there with gluten-free foods and craft beers.
Even closer to home, Leveris says that Ontario cheese producers are seeing good growth in their sales numbers as restaurants, grocery stores, and delis increasingly look to capitalize on this close-to-home source of dairy.
“Local cheese is a very big trend, and fortunately Ontario has a number of fantastic specialty cheeses being produced to help fill the demand,” he notes.
Although a lot of Ontario cheeses are of the cheddar and mozzarella varieties, though high quality, other specialty types including gouda, brie, camembert and evanturel can all be found within the province.
For cheese manufacturers, those specialty cheeses are where they can find business growth - something that can be hard to come by these days. According to the Canadian Dairy Information Centre, the average Canadian consumed 7.77 kilograms of specialty cheese in 2010, the highest number on record and a 14 per cent increase from 2000. The consumption of processed cheese, meanwhile, fell to its lowest point in recent memory.
While cheese might be able to stand on its own as the focal point in an appetizer – Hadden says not to underestimate the popularity of a strong cheese tray – its role in the main course remains that of complimenting other feature dishes.
It’s not a new role, and Hadden says that the traditional ways of incorporating cheese into menus won’t disappear anytime soon.
“The traditional cheddar, mozzarella, and Italian cheeses are not going anywhere when it comes to serving dishes,” he says. “However, there has been a slight shift from restaurants of all types in what they are willing to experiment on.”
Gourmet burgers are one of those experiments, and Leveris says that Ontario cheeses have been particularly beneficial in their rise to menu prominence, with some restaurants offering different burgers with a two-to-three-year-old white cheddar, smoked cheddar or gouda, chili or jalapeno Jack, brie or camembert, and even a horseradish cheddar.
“An operator can have the same eight-ounce quality Canadian beef patty and bun,” Leveris explains, “but by having six different specialty cheeses as a topping option, they are offering a ‘gourmet burger bar’ experience.”
Even burger chains are getting into the act, says Hadden, offering much more deluxe variations on the standard fast-food hamburger. Leveris adds that the same idea could be applied to gourmet pizzas.
Hadden brings up another interesting menu concept: gourmet grilled cheese. “Traditional grilled cheese is now being offered at restaurants as a three- or four-cheese grilled cheese,” he notes.
Jalapeno Jack on burgers, four-cheese grilled cheese, or countless varieties in a cheese tray - however you slice it, cheese is a major part of today's menu trends.
